Spectacular, exotic, beautiful, elegant É.. just some of the adjectives usually ascribed to an increasingly popular indoor plant - the orchid.

The term 'orchid growing' is unfortunately, often synonymous with 'difficulty' but provided a variety is selected to suit your home they are relatively easy to care for. Although it is true that some varieties have fairly rigorous demands many hybrids have been specially bred for ease of cultivation and can be grown and propagated in the home.

Care of orchids is dependant upon the variety selected although it is fair to say that there are some rules, which are general to different varieties. Orchids need to be kept draught-free and have access to bright (but not always direct sun) light. Watering should be frequent enough to avoid drying, but not so frequent that the compost becomes soggy and never let your orchid sit in water. Water once or twice a week during the summer months and more if required; lessen the amount during winter but don't allow the compost to dry out completely.

Orchids are mainly epiphytic, which means in their natural habitat, they live upon (epi) other plants (phyton), usually trees, but are not parasitic per se. Because of this their roots are specially adapted to 'open' conditions, which means that ordinary multi-purpose composts are completely unsuitable as a growing medium for potted orchids. A specialist orchid compost should always be utilised, which contains a combination of bark, peat, coarse, grit and charcoal - extremely free-draining.

The variety Phalaenopsis is more commonly known as the month orchid and is often the one that comes to mind for most people. Epiphytes have two methods of growth-sympodial and monopodial and where the moth orchid falls into the latter category. This means that flowerheads develop from axillary points along its arching stems and can be pink, white, yellow, red, spotted or striped. Once the moth orchid has finished flowering (flowering can however continue for many months), leave the old flower spike(s) in situ as new growth will develop from these in addition to that emanating from aerial roots. Situate this orchid in a room with a minimum night-time temperature of 18¡C (65¡F) that has good light but out of direct sunlight. As many orchids enjoy reasonably high humidity levels sit them on a tray or saucer filled with moist gravel or clay aggregate such as Hydroleca. Feed your orchid with a proprietary orchid food approximately once every three weeks during the growing period and only once every six to eight weeks during winter. Cymbidiums on the other hand are sympodial orchids, which are characterised by creeping rhizomes, with growing points. These growing points swell into psuedobulbs and where flower formation begins.

Cymbidiums have long strappy leaves and where copious, but smaller flowers than the moth orchid, are borne right up relatively straight spikes. Psuedobulbs do however, require plenty of all-round light to ripen (although not direct hot sun) in order to produce flowers but are easily accommodated in a cool glass house with a minimum night-time temperature of 10¡C (50¡F)in winter. Alternatively, place your cymbidium outside, once any chance of frost has well and truly passed, where it can receive early/late sun but shaded for the rest of the day. Do remember however to keep it well-watered. Once flowering has finished, cleanly cut off the old flower spike.

Repot your orchid once it has filled its pot and after it has finished flowering. Choose a pot that is one to two sizes larger than the original, which can encompass all the roots, but no bigger, repeating the process as and when necessary. Although I have only mentioned two varieties, others including Dendrobiums, Cattleyas and Paphiopedliums are also generally available to purchase.