Container gardening has experienced something of a revolution in the UK and other countries, despite the fact that it is not a particularly new concept. Hectic lives, and the need to 'save time' has perhaps contributed towards the upturn in containerising plants in the search for low maintenance gardening.

Tubs and hanging baskets for example have been, in some cases, substituted for the traditional border. It could also be the case that the expansive range of planting containers now available has encouraged their use for specimen planting, topiary, bonsai and for livening up the patio or deck areas.

Certainly the choices available in containers are almost endless in terms of the design, style and materials used to manufacture them. We now have deceivingly light weight 'stone troughs' ideal for planting alpines or the rich blues and burgundy found in a range of glazed pots.

We also stock a beautiful range produced in the Scottish borders using Staffordshire fire-clay. The pots are fired to 1260 Celsius which vitrifies them making them completely water and frost proof. They also come in a range of gorgeous colours inspired by the heathers found in the borders. You will also find a huge range of terracotta pots to suit all tastes and budgets.

Of course there are distinct advantages in containerising plants apart from the low maintenance aspects. These include growing shrubs unsuitable for your soil type, being able to relocate your plants to brighten up dull areas and the opportunity to choose more tender varieties, which would not survive a British winter outdoors. Yet for many people containerising plants especially those other than bedding means entering the realm of the unknown.

However the type and frequency of questions asked is remarkably consistent. For example it is almost easier to say what plants to avoid containerising than the reverse!

As a general rule avoid tall herbaceous perennials (those that die back to soil level each year and reappear the following) such as Delphiniums, Lupins and Hollyhocks, or those with short flowering periods and uninteresting foliage.

Forget too those that really need to stretch their legs including rambling roses, fast-growing conifers and fruit trees unless they have been grafted onto dwarf rootstocks.

Bear in mind that as a general rule the size of container used for leafy shrubs and trees should be at least 1 feet wide and 1 foot deep in order for the plant to do well.

An additional tip is to make sure you really firm the compost down so that it makes good contact with the sides of the pot. This will help to prevent any watery gaps from expanding as ice during winter and shattering the pot.

Some of the more common but never-the-less attractive shrubs suitable for containers include Camellia, Pieris and Rhododendrons all of which enjoy an acid soil.

Use an ericaceous compost for potting up. As with all container grown plants remember to water well, having ensured that there is adequate drainage.

As part of the yearly routine carried out in the spring gently scrape off approximately 2" of compost and top up with fresh adding in a slow release fertiliser such as Miracle-Grow Osmocote to feed the shrub for the entire season.

Some shrubs may need repotting every 3 Ð 5 years, so if they begin to under perform when well looked after they may require a larger pot.

As with many aspects of gardening there are elements of fun to be had so why not try your hand at topiary or bonsai. One of the best known perennials to containerise and clip into shape is Buxus sempervirens, or common Box. Box will grow to a height of approximately 4 foot and produces masses of small, glossy green leaves. The Common Box also grows a little faster than other varieties so don't worry too much if your hand slips when clipping!

If you are daunted by the thought of clipping free hand purchase topiary frames to place in the pot, allowing the box to grow through it and affording you a framework for clipping. There is something very therapeutic about clipping box Ð why not give it a try?

However you are by no means restricted to box for topiary. Try Taxus (yew), Bay Laurel (non-edible) or Euonymus and trim into a pyramid or ball-shape. Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys' is a fabulous choice to containerise provided it has the benefit of full sun. The 3' long lilac-blue chain of flowers are absolutely stunning in May and June and although Wisteria is a rampant climber, growing it in a pot will help to check its growth but hard pruning will also be required.

Of course the 'piece de resistance' for many people is Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple), often seen containerised and/or miniaturised as a bonsai specimen. Grown for their outstanding foliage colour the many varieties of Acer available are really hard to beat.

Contrary to popular belief they are not particularly difficult to grow provided a few basic rules are followed. Firstly Acers generally prefer an acid soil so again use ericaceous compost for container grown specimens. They also need a sheltered, lightly shaded position where they receive full sun only at either end of the day.

The superb blaze of colour that ornamental Maples bring to the garden, especially in the autumn can be very hard to beat and every garden should have at least one!

Pay a visit to the garden centre where you will find a substantial choice of not only suitable plants but an extensive array of containers for you to enjoy for many years to come.