Mention the words 'spring clean' and thoughts of dusting, vacuuming, decorating and general household chores may (or may not!) come to mind. But for those who keep a pond 'spring clean' means something entirely different.

Yes, it's that time of year to choose a mild day, roll up your sleeves and prepare to get wet and dirty in the quest to ready your pond for the following warm season.

Even if your pond does not require a major overhaul it is likely that marginal plants will need thinning and dividing and where pond equipment including pumps and filters need reinstating in good order.

Although pond life will by now have become more active as the weather warms, fish will not have started to spawn, making it the ideal time to carry out this work. Bear in mind however that it is not always necessary or particularly ideal to carry out a complete water change each and every spring unless pond conditions warrant it.

If for example, your pond contains a lot of silt on the bottom, or if you experienced continual green water, blanket weed or unexplained fish deaths the previous year, a partial or complete water change may be necessary.

However do consider that this on its own may not permanently remedy certain undesirable water conditions especially if as a result of high toxicity caused by excessive fish stocks and/or overfeeding.

Should a complete clean-out be necessary bear in mind your fish will have to be accommodated elsewhere in the interim. Use part of the existing pond water topped up with fresh but do ensure that it is de-chlorinated before adding the fish. If you prefer not to use a chemical treatment for this purpose fresh water will need to 'sit' for at least a week before introducing the fish.

Remember to add tonic salt to new water and adjust the amount accordingly for partial water changes. This will aid the development of a mucus coating over the scales of the fish giving added protection from disease.

Existing aquatic plants will need to be tidied up after winter and in some cases re-potted. Lifting out deep water plants can be quite difficult especially if their root system has outgrown the container and it is advisable to ask for help rather than risk a very cold dip!

Do consider that ponds are not the most hygienic of environments and it is always advisable to wear appropriate gloves especially if you have any cuts or abrasions.

Using a sharp knife cut away any excess root growth and re-plant the rhizomes of lilies and irises in aquatic baskets. Divide other marginal plants to either increase your own stocks or to reduce an over-abundance.

Although ordinary, unfertilised, poor-quality garden soil can be used for aquatic planting, a purpose made, proprietary aquatic compost, topped off with washed pea gravel is ideal for the job. Don't leave lilies out of the water for any longer than is necessary and replace all plants in the pond at the required depth.

If carrying out a partial water change only pumping out 1/3 of the pond water should be sufficient. If your pond contains copious amounts of oxygenating plants such as Elodea Canadensis (Canadian pond weed) thin this out a little to keep it under control.

It is at this time of year that the floating Stratiotes aloides (Water soldier) will begin to re-emerge from the bottom of the pond, where it will have developed new buds. These attractive plants, which look similar to the household 'spider' plant, can thrive given the right conditions and it may be necessary to remove excess plants each year. Give one to a friend and put any unwanted floaters onto the compost heap where they will rot down.

A well-planted pond will not only help to maintain optimum water conditions and reduce algal growth but will also provide interest and colour in addition to providing a natural habitat for a variety of wildlife.

Choose from a wide range of marginal aquatic plants to add interest such as Typha minima (dwarf reed mace), which looks just like a smaller version of a bulrush and will give height to your scheme. Or consider Eriophorum angustifolium, a delightful, grassy marginal whose unusual blooms look like white cotton wool balls!

Lobelia cardinalis will provide a contrast of striking red flowers whereas Juncus effusus spiralis (Corkscrew rush) will again provide something just that little bit different. The beautiful Zantedeschia aethiopica (Arum lily) will be equally at home in the margins of your pond or in the damp soil surrounding the pond.

Aim to have 2/3 of the surface of the pond covered in plant life during the summer months as this will help to control for green water if you do not have a UV filter. Pond filters can also be activated at this time of year.

Biological filters work by encouraging colonies of bacteria, which feed on the waste products in the pond water and convert them into harmless nitrates to benefit aquatic plants. Some biological filters also house UV bulbs which kill the algae that causes green water. The bulb should now be replaced but do remember that once you have activated your filter system it should be left to run 24 hours a day.

Turning a biological filter on and off will cause more harm than good as untreated waste will be flushed from the filter box into the pond where fish will quickly succumb to the adverse effects. Bear in mind however that filter systems do need time to work efficiently and it can take up to 4-6 weeks to see any benefits.

The routine maintenance necessary each year is undoubtedly rewarded ten-fold by the pleasure gained from watching fish and aquatic plants mature, witnessing wildlife such as frogs, toads and hedgehogs gravitate to the garden, in addition to having a peaceful and visually pleasant place to relax, unwind and simply enjoy!